In 2013, I went to Thailand with a group of other students with one goal in mind, a biology credit for college. Going into this trip I knew I just needed to pass this course, but little did I know, it would be one of the most life changing experiences I’d ever have. Our teacher had connections in Thailand, which allowed us to have experiences most tourists would never get a chance to have. Living with the Akha Hill tribes of Northern Thailand was one of those things.
Who are the Akha people?
The Akha people are an ethnic group who live in villages in the mountains of Thailand, Myanmar, China and Laos. Thought to have originated from China, many migrated to Northern Thailand in the early 20th century to flee the Berma civil war. Akha villages are traditionally high in the mountains, far from the rest of civilization.
Akha homes are built with logs, bamboo, thatch, and sometimes concrete. The tribe is known for their agriculture and live mostly off their land where they grow rice, corn, and other vegetables. The Akha women gather eggs and crops, where the children take care of the pigs and chickens.
Known for living ‘The Akha Way,’ the tribe is raised to have a deep respect for human beings and natural resources. The Akha religion is an important part of their culture, although many tribes have since converted to Christianity.
The tribes speak ‘Akha,’ a Tibetan-Burmese language with some words borrowed from Thai and Chinese. They had no form of written language until the Chinese government helped standardize it after 1949.
Before Getting to the Hill tribes
Going into our stay, I had no idea what to expect. The only information I was given beforehand was that we would living with the Akha hill tribes, completely off the grid with no cell service, no wifi, and no running water. Besides that, I knew nothing but to pack a bag for three nights and get in the truck.
Riding in the back of the pick up truck, I felt the wind on my face as we moved through the bumpy mountains of Northern Thailand. The further we went, I remember becoming more and more anxious. We would soon be 100% immersed in the Akha culture. I knew it was going to be a once in a lifetime experience, and for the first time in my life I embraced the unknown despite my nervousness. I am so glad I did, because these three days easily became some of the most rewarding cultural experiences I’ve ever had.
The Warmest Welcome
When we first arrived, I remember driving up a large hill and seeing the village for the first time. There was a main dirt road lined on either side with bamboo huts with thatched roofs. As the truck parked, a huge group of children came running out towards us. As I jumped off of the tailgate all anxiousness subsided. I had children run to me and grab my hand like they have known me my whole life.
A soccer ball seemed to appear out of nowhere, and everyone gathered in a circle to kick the ball around. Being the soccer lover that I am, this was my heaven. We may not have been able to communicate one word of each other’s language, but in this moment I felt like we were suddenly speaking a universal language.
Getting Assigned Our Living Quarters
Soon after arrival, my classmates and I went our separate ways to our assigned homes where we would be living for the next few days. A family of five took welcomed me into their home. Their house was two rooms, and was one of the only ones made from concrete. The bedroom was where the mom, dad and three children all slept. The main room had a small table, refrigerator and an old TV that I never saw turned on once the whole time I was there. There was an outdoor bathroom shared with other houses, which consisted of a hole to squat over, and a self pump well with water to wash your hands.
Some Background on the Akha Hill Tribe We Stayed With
The Akha hill tribe we stayed with is not typically open to tourists or home stays. For this reason, I felt we truly had a 100% authentic experience, which I loved. There was no dressing in up in Akha garb specifically for the entertainment of tourists. Just people going about their everyday lives in their normal t-shirt and pants, sharing their homes with some people that can’t speak their language. (Ok, I guess that’s not that normal.)
Far from the rest of civilization, this tribe has built their own community and adapted to modern times. Therefore, they have some use of technology such as TV and radio. They have converted to Christianity, and religion is rooted in their every day lives. They often sing religious songs or chants.
There is an old truck for the whole village to use, so they can drive into the small town ten minutes away. Here they can sell or buy goods such as coffee, spices and eggs. Every morning, the kids put on their purple uniforms and make their way into town for school. Separated by age groups, they sit in open-air classrooms and learn subjects such as religion, language, and math.
Sleeping in the Akha Village
With only a blanket and a bamboo mat, I tried to find a creative way to make the concrete floor comfortable for sleeping. It’s safe to say, I failed tremendously. I woke up every ten minutes throughout the night to shift my body or add another layer of clothing from my backpack. By the time I woke up I had on three pairs of socks, two pants and a sweatshirt.
I’ve never been so cold that I’ve shivered myself awake. Who would have thought Thailand in the summer could be so freezing?
My First Morning in the Village
Having slept only a couple of hours, I woke up at the break of dawn. Sneaking quietly out of the house, I realized I was the first of my classmates to wake up for the day. Knowing there’s no way my body could handle another minute of laying on the concrete floor, I decided to explore a bit and take some photos. It’s not often I wake up that early, so I enjoyed the serenity of peace and quiet as I watched the light rays rise through the trees.
I found a trail and followed it to the top of the hill that overlooked the village. At the top, there were 360 degree views of scenic mountains and lush forests that seemed to go on for miles. I remember the feeling of the chilly crisp air on my face. I found a fresh water well and some grave sites marked with crosses that they would bring offerings to each day. It was comforting they would bring every day items such as shoes, drinks and clothing. Anything they thought they may need in the afterlife.
As I looked down over the village, I could see some of the Akha people moving about and starting their day. Out of no where, some of the kids found me and decided it was time to have a little dance party before they headed off to school for the day.
The kids spoke the Akha language, but knew only a couple words of English including “ok,” “yes,” and “hey sexy lady” thanks to the global hit ‘Gangnam Style’ which came out that year. Somehow this song made its way to even the most remote parts of the world. We all knew the dance, which we found pretty comical.
I don’t think the kids had any idea what “hey sexy lady” meant, but you can be sure I chuckled every time they said it.
I saw others starting to gather around a newly built fire in the village center. I decided to join even though I was still the only person from my class awake and knew I wouldn’t be able to understand one word of conversation. The warmth of the fire felt better than ever after the long night of shivering.
Some of my male classmates finally woke up and joined me. I distinctively remember all the men being offered coffee. The coffee loving feminist that I am was taken aback at first, but I reminded myself that this is a cultural thing, not a sexist ploy. For some reason, this moment still stands out in my mind eight years later. I felt like I had a lightbulb moment- This was when I realized how important it is to take in all parts of a culture when you travel. Even if you don’t agree with a view or a lifestyle, you’re there to see something different than your everyday life. If you don’t take in every part of a culture, you may never learn from it. Yes, even if it’s over a stupid cup of coffee.
My Art Study With the Akha Children
Prior to making my way to Thailand, in order to get my Biology credit for my class I submitted a proposal about conducting biological studies through the arts. While living with the Akha hill tribes, my assignment was to create art projects with the kids and take note of their feelings, reactions, and moods. Conducting these studies, I was able see first hand the positive affects of art on mental health.
Art Therapy is the use of art and creativity to explore feelings, reconcile emotional conflicts, manage behavior, and develop social skills. Many studies have found art therapy to be a positive outlet for supporting self expression and reducing anxiety. Today it’s even considered a form of relaxation and meditation.
After the kids got back from school one day, I gathered in one of the huts to conduct an art project. Handing each child fresh markers, books, paper and crayons, they got to work creating whatever their hearts desired. Seeing the smiles and excitement to show off their hard work, I knew art truly brought them joy. Being an art major and knowing how art also made me feel, I was happy to share this positive and creative outlet with them.
As you can see, many of the children chose to draw things they saw daily. A church, their families, eh… the male genitalia. My classmates all thought this was hilarious. I mean, in the US, a childish way to get your friends to laugh is to draw a penis. However, none of kids laughed or thought this a funny joke, which I found fascinating. They were simply drawing things they happened to see. There’s probably a much greater scientific study to be done on that subject alone… maybe I’ll have to go back one day.
Nights in the Akha Hill Tribes
During the night time, the kids sang songs for us and would play together until dinner was ready. The whole village gathered in one of the larger huts and ate dinner together every night. It truly was an incredible sense of community. It felt like the village was all one big family!
Akha food is much different than Thai food. All fresh ingredients are used and nothing is ever wasted. All of the meals we ate for breakfast lunch and dinner were soup based with leafy greens and questionable meat. I’m pretty sure I may have eaten dog, but that’s a story for another time…
Throughout my stay with the Akah hill tribes, one of the kids stuck by my side the whole time. We could not speak one word to each other, but we truly bonded. I still have no idea what his name even was, but I can still hear his infectious laugh! He would run into my arms and put my hands on his face. I would squish his cheeks and he would laugh so hard. At night, he would sit in my lap by the fire and we would watch the stars.
It’s crazy to think how an experience like this can truly bond you. I still think about this kid today and wish I had a way to contact him. To think he’s probably sixteen now blows my mind.
Visiting the Kid’s at School
One afternoon, we ended up going into the nearby town to check out a couple of local shops. We walked through the stores looking at the foreign candies and fresh fruits I’d never seen before. I ended up buying some cookies which I snuck to some the kiddos later on that night.
On our way back, we stopped at the school to see what the kids experienced each day. The school had a couple different classrooms with students assorted by age groups. The open-air classrooms were large with alphabet banners and posters plastered on the walls. Outside of the classroom was a large basketball court where the kids could play.
My little kiddo friend saw me from his class and ran outside into my arms. How freaking cute is that?
In the following days, we helped around the village as much as we could. Some of my classmates helped build new stoves for cooking. Others would collect water samples, and the nursing majors would do health studies on some of the people. We all felt sad leaving the village. Knowing this experience would stick with us forever, our long drive back to Chiang Rai was quiet as we reflected internally on the last couple of days.
***
To be honest with you, I wasn’t sure what to expect living with the Akha hill tribes. I was in the mindset to go with the flow and take in every moment. Looking back on it now, I feel nothing but appreciative for every single part of this experience. Yes, even those long cold nights. These kids taught me so many life lessons I will forever be grateful for. I knew the second I left that my life was changed forever. Staying with this Akha hill tribe is easily the best cultural and life changing moment I have ever had. And this is one of the reasons I’m such an advocate today for others to travel. The lessons you’ll learn will stick with you for a lifetime.
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Wow! What an amazing learning experience, more educational than anything you could learn from a textbook.
I definitely struggle sometimes with the way I’m treated in other countries just bc I’m a woman and have to remind myself it’s nothing personal.
I truly believe experiences like these teach you things you can’t learn in a classroom. Some of the things I learned on this trip have stuck with me to this day! So grateful.
I really enjoyed reading your experiences with the Akha people. Looks like a beautiful place and welcoming community!
Hi Samantha, thank you so much for the kind words. So glad you enjoyed reading this. It truly was a wonderful experience!